I decided that I first wanted to go to Morocco after seeing the Moorish architecture of Portugal and then, Seville and Granada in Spain. Everything from the vibrant zellige (patterned tiles ) to the gorgeous architecture made me want to experience it more fully.
Fast forward to a year later and I decided to go to Morocco in February (off-season) after going to Europe on a business trip. Coming from California, my boyfriend and I were quite lucky to go from Dublin after getting used to the jet lag there instead of laying over in London or France like most people might do coming from the West Coast.
Itinerary:
Planning the itinerary requires some thought as Morocco is a pretty big country and we only had about ~9 days (including travel). If you’re planning to do a Sahara overnight desert trip, I would advise most people to divide the country by north and south since you may not have time to see all of the main cities of Morocco.
E.g. Marrakech + Sahara + Ouzazarte vs. Tangier + Fez + Chefchaeoun
This is just a sample though, it really depends on what kind of trip you want – relaxed and spending time in Marrakech fully, or making sure you hit every destination possible?
I’m in the camp of making sure I spend a few days in every city but try to see as much as possible, so my itinerary reflects that – plus in February there are no desert tours, so if that’s something of strong interest to you, going during the warmer months would make more sense. Keep in mind that Morocco is quite warm even in April/May so if that’s not your thing, then going off-season is still a good choice. February was a little chilly but much less crowded and riads were really cheap and easy to book.
My personal itinerary was Marrakech (3 days) + Casablanca (1 day) + Chenchaeoun (1 day) + Fes (2 days).
If I could do it again I would definitely skip Casablanca, it’s a pretty modern city and not much to do, not to mention it’s out of the way. We chose to drive because stopping each day in Casablanca and Chefchaeoun broke up the distance enough for it to be “manageable” (~4-5 hours). The roads are pretty good but if you feel uncomfortable with the idea, flying is definitely your best option.
Where to Stay:
Riads in Morocco are 100% the way you should go. Riads are often merchants or otherwise wealthy family homes with a courtyard in the middle that have been converted into a B&B style hotels. They’re neither hotels or B&Bs in the sense that they’re much more personalized than hotels and usually much more luxurious than B&Bs but have elements of comfort, hospitality, and personalization of both.
Researching riads was actually great fun since you get to see so much of the stunning architecture and unique decor that makes Morocco so charming. In February they were even cheaper than average for a 5-star experience. You should be able to find riads at every budget, and I chose mine by cross-referencing multiple review sites and travel blogs, optimizing on budget, value, hospitality, and uniqueness of the riads.
I looked at Tripadvisor, Expedia, Travel + Leisure, and Telegraph’s Hotel rating system to cross-reference riads I was interested in once I filtered by stars and price. I decided that for two people I would stay around ~200 USD/night for 5 star riads. I would consider this to be quite a bargain, and actually most of the riads we stayed in were way under this budget. There are perks to going in February! When my cousin went just a couple of months later, there were fewer options and they had risen in price quite a bit, even though they still remain in the pleasantly affordable range for US standards.
Marrakech:
I wanted to try a couple of riads so we first stayed at Riad Kherridine and then did one night at Selman Marrakech.
I landed on Riad Kherridine because even though so many options were just gorgeous, they had the highest hospitality waiting from Tripsadvisor for multiple years in a row and I was attracted to that, especially as it would be our first stay in Marrakech. I was really not disappointed. Riad Kherridine is a beautiful riad in a central location of Marrakech, close to the Medina but discreetly located so it’s quiet and peaceful. Riads look completely nondescript from the outside as they’re all in massive walls, but walking inside is like walking through into time into an oasis. Each room is personalized and are quite big, much bigger than standard hotel rooms, and are outfitted with stylish local touches.
I would recommend that you experience the Moroccan breakfast experience in all of the riads you stay in, because it’s delicious, refreshing, and most often included your stay. They have standard fares like eggs, meat, and cheeses, but also have a huge feast of freshly baked local pastries, homemade preserves, and amazing juice and coffee. Definitely don’t forget to try orange juice in Morocco as they have giant orange groves outside of Marrakech and that’s actually where a lot of Europe’s oranges come from. They are delicious! At Riad Kherredine, they simply request that as you wake up you give them a ring to decide what you want for breakfast and where you would like to have it: terrace, by the pool, room, etc. The options are endless and they make sure that you have something different every day to tempt your palate!
The famous hospitality was definitely not lacking. For a small additional fee, they pick you up from the airport, drive to Marrakech, escort you from parking to the riad (cars are not allowed in certain parts of Marrakech), and not only offer to book hammams and restaurants, but also insist politely on escorting you to where you want to go each day, lest you get lost. Any time we were relaxing in the courtyard, they were delighted to provide us with the famous mint tea that Morocco is famous for, fruit, and also little nibbles. It was my favorite experience in Morocco.
I wanted to stay at Selman Marrakech for a night as the riad looked absolutely gorgeous and it was a little outside of the Medina/city center, which would be good before driving to Casablanca. The riad (more like a hotel in this case as it’s very big) but with stunning architectural details, was breathtaking. Picture speak larger than words in this case.
While I’m glad to have experienced this for a night, I would say that Riad Kherridine was overall a more authentic and personal experience, as Selman Marrakech is quite large and didn’t have the level of personalized care that a true riad might. Their breakfast was more of a buffet style and the staff, while perfectly kind, weren’t as warm and attentive.
However, I did absolutely enjoy a truly luxurious hammam experience that was incredibly relaxing. Hammams are Turkish baths/spa that usually has a sauna/steam, scrubbing from the staff/cold plunge/shower, and relaxation with some tea and drinks to reinvigorate you. The facilities was so gorgeous and the staff went above and beyond to ensure you had a truly relaxing experience. I would recommend anyone visiting Morocco to try a hammam at least once…or twice.
The most famous and Instagrammed hammam in Marrakech is of course, Royal Mansour, but it’s difficult to get reservations, so I would say book in advance if you’re interested in going to the famous riad.
Marrakech Itinerary:
Must:
- Medina
- Le Maison Bleue/Le Jardin Majorelle/YSL Museum
- Hammam
You could spend hours wandering the Medina and getting lost, and that’s exactly what you should do. It’s hectic, bustling, and a bit frenetic but browse freely and just be wary that there may be some aggressive salespeople. I would head straight to the heart of the Medina, have some juice (they’re all delicious) and pick an alley to start. Everywhere you go you’re guaranteed to see interesting spices, tea, dye, people creating their own specialties right in front of you.
My boyfriend was interested in buying an authentic Moroccan rug, so we went to a rug “bazaar” that came recommended by some blogs that looked small from the outside but had truly rug rooms upon rooms and every type of rug hanging from the ceiling. There was even someone weaving at a loom right there. It’s an interesting experience to shop in Marrakech because the owner will serve you mint tea, take you on a tour of his shop, and just start piling rugs and rugs in front of you. You get educated very quickly on the type of rugs, Berber, Atlas Mountains, etc. Expect to bargain if you want a good deal; be polite but don’t back down, because of course it’s par for the course that they want to drive up prices for foreigners. We left with a thick wool Berber rug that we’re really happy with; they’ll also ship it for you, so if you’re in the market for buying rugs (they are much cheaper than what you’d buy at Citizenry or West Elm), I would consider buying more than one as well.
The other highlight was Le Maison Bluee and Jardin Majorelle, commissioned and built by Yves Sant Laurent and famous architect (insert name). Marrakech was a source of inspiration for many artists, architects, and designers, and this unique space, right next to the YSL museum, was a fascinating mix of different architecture styles. The vibrant blue and gold house is of course famous and entirely worth checking out. There’s an entrance fee and a cafe if you want to take a break, I wouldn’t imagine this would take more than 2 hours of your time.
As I mentioned above, a hammam experience in Marrakech is a must. Take half a day or just a couple of hours to book an experience (there are many to be had for all budgets) and just fully relax. Even just visiting a hammam is unique, especially if you pick one like Royal Mansour.
If you have time:
Bahia Palace
I was unfortunately underwhelmed by the palace, maybe because I was expecting something like Alcazar Real in Seville or Alhambra in Granada. This was much smaller and it surprisingly didn’t have the same level of detail that those palaces in Spain had. If you’re curious and have time, go for a stroll, they still have a charming garden, but if you don’t have time, I would optimize for other experiences.
Skip:
Saadian tombs
Also on the list is the Saadian tombs; similar to the palace, I didn’t find the overall experience as stimulating as I had hoped, although of course the history is interesting. Again, if you have limited time, I would de-prioritize the tombs.
Chefchaeoun
Chefchaeuone (The Blue Pearl) was probably popularized by Instagram for its blue walls and is now an extremely popular destination. It was originally a Jewish settlement and the city is blue because it’s a holy color, and also to keep mosquitos away. Nestled in the mountains, it’s a very small town, so it’s possible to see everything in one day, but if you’re driving there, I would do an overnight since it’s not very close to other cities.
The Medina of Chefchaeoun is very small but picturesque, charming, and strollable. Because it’s so small, I would recommend getting lost within the city walls, you will definitely see everything in 3-4 hours without trying. Each alley and corner has something different to see whether it’s a different shade of blue, souks and shops, or even a little farmers market where people sell produce. The food options are a little limited, but the Medina center has little cafes that sell simple but delicious breakfasts with a view and other Moroccan dishes like tagine that are delicious.
Fes
I was excited to go to Fes because it has been described as a more historical, preserved, and authentic counterpart to Marrakech. I probably didn’t get the full experience as we were there on a Friday and unfortunately much of the Medina is closed as it’s a holy day. There are still some souks open but you’ll get a more full experience on other days, so maybe I missed out.
We stayed at Riad Fes, the highest rated riad in few and part of Relaix & Chateau. The riad is full of absurdly beautiful details in every room, so if you stay there, take some time to stroll around the hotel, because each room is painstakingly detailed. Again, pictures speak louder than words in this case.
It was an amazingly luxurious experience staying at Riad Fes and I enjoyed it immensely because you get such a pampering experience, but because it is also a bigger riad (more like a hotel), you don’t quite get the full experience as you might at a true, smaller riad. The architecture and details were enough to offset any cons there, also breakfast is not included but a delicious feast. We couldn’t finish it most of the time; in fact, I would say one breakfast could easily feed two people.
I expected to enjoy Fes more than Marrakech but I was a little disappointed, maybe because I didn’t get the full experience. It’s a little smaller but I found the overall people to be really pushy and much more rude than in Marrakech. We got hassled and harassed, so be aware that this may happen to you as well. If people offer to give you directions, they will expect payment in return, whether you asked for it or not, and if they offer to take you somewhere specific, likely they are getting commission.
I enjoyed food in Morocco, their tangines and couscous are smoky, sweet/savory, and really tender, but my favorite meal the whole time was in Fes. The city’s signature dish is bestilla, a pigeon crusty, flaky pie topped with almonds and sugar, It might sound a bit strange but the cinnamon-y meat and slightly sweet/savory outer layer is truly delicious, so I highly recommend trying this in Fes. The other dish, r’hissa, was almost like a flaky noodle dish in an addictive sauce that’s hard to describe and not found on the menu in other places we went to, but was also delicious. There’s a little alleyway with Clock Tower cafe that serves these dishes in the Medina.
Other Tips:
Being a Muslim country, although quite liberal, Morocco will not serve alcohol in most premises, although you can find it if you’re searching for it. You also won’t see many women out and about and most are dressed conservatively, although without hijab. I dressed modestly and covered up just to be respectful, and I didn’t feel unsafe with my boyfriend next to me, but expect to get some curious looks.
The roads are well-paved and it’s fairly easy to navigate, but there are speed traps and police around the corner who are trying to catch foreigners. They’ll likely fine you with cash on the spot ($20). This happened to us multiple times, it’s annoying but given that the cash amount is so low and they weren’t unfriendly, we considered it a minor hassle.
Google maps is a struggle in Morocco! I would download Waze if you’re driving long distances. Not only does Google maps struggle in the maze of alleyways but almost completely stop working once you leave the cities, I’m not entirely sure why but all the locals recommended that we use Waze for navigating.
Final Thoughts:
As an active traveler, Morocco was one of those countries that surprised me with how hectic it was. I love wandering random streets and getting lost when I travel, but aside from the Medina, I wouldn’t advise that in Morocco. Keep in mind that you’re sharing the streets with animals, people, and vehicles, making walking a bit difficult. I was a little more stressed about navigation and walking from Point A to Point B than I had anticipated.
My absolute favorite parts of Morocco were truly the riads. I would never recommend travelers stay at their lodging when going to most countries, but I think the riad experience is special enough that if you want to take a day and soak in the unique experience, your’e not losing anything. I loved wandering around, checking out the details, and also experiencing the hospitality that’s part of the culture.
Is Morocco worth going? Yes absolutely! It’s like stepping back in time. One of my dream itineraries would actually be Andalusia (Seville, Granada), taking the ferry to Tangier, seeing more of Morocco, and then going back up to Portugal for Lisbon, Sintra, and other cities. Not only are those some of my favorite places I’ve been to (travel guide coming soon!), but they have commonalities in architecture and mingling of culture that the experience would be fascinating.